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We’ve all caught the DIY bug this month, which
is why we have sore thumbs and our sub-editor’s
dad is in hospital following a freak accident with a
circle-saw (get well soon Maurice). However, we have
a beautiful poker table as the fruit of our efforts.
We can now guarantee that, with the tiniest comprehension
of rudimentary DIY and a handful of dollars, you will
soon be the toast of your friends and the envy of your
neighborhood. Follow these simple instructions and you
can’t go wrong, but careful with those circle
saws.
| What
You Need |
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One Sheet (4’x8’)
3/4” Thick Birch Finish-Grade Plywood
One 8’ long 1”x2”
One 30”x60” Folding Table ($35 at OfficeMax
or OfficeDepot)
High-density 1/4” or 3/8” Foam Padding:
(Available from casinocom.com)
Poker Cloth: (Pokernstuff.com, casinocom.com, CasinoSupply.com
have a number of options at varying prices).
Perfect Padding Railing:
(Available at CasinoSupply.com)
A box of 100 one inch #8 wood screws
Ten two inch wood screws
A box of 100 #8 countersunk finish washers
A box of 100 3/8 flat washers
Rubber-specific cement/adhesive
Duro or 3M Spray Adhesive
Jigsaw
Circle Saw
Staple Gun
(should shoot at least 7/16” staples)
Screwdriver
Tape Measure
Medium Grit Sandpaper
Scissors
Pencil
String |
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Decisions
First, decide what dimensions you’d like your
table to be. We decided on 96”L x 42”W.
This seems to be big enough to seat 11 people rather
comfortably, and just the right size to replace our
old boardroom table with this new feltier version.
Break Out the Manly Power Tools
Using the circle saw, rip the plywood to the appropriate
width
and length. For us, this meant chopping 6” off
one side and leaving
the length as is.
To create an oval shape, you’ll need to do a
bit of math. Take the
width of the table and divide by two. Mark that distance
from each
end of the table, in the very center lengthwise. These
marks will be
the center radius for the arc on each end.
Get some string and a pencil. Sink a nail or screw
part way into
the marks you’ve just made. Tie a string around
the nail or screw,
and attach a pencil to the other end so that the pencil
is taut at the
end of the plywood. Use this contraption as a large
compass to
draw a semicircle on each end.
Figure 1
Then, cut along your arcs with a jigsaw. You should
end up with a ‘rounded rectangle’ piece
of plywood (figure 1).
Give it Wood
The 8’ 1”x2” you purchased will be
attached to the bottom of the folding table to give
a bit more width for you to screw the plywood into.
In essence, you’ll be sandwiching the folding
tabletop between the plywood and the 1”x2”
so you can use a longer screw and not rely on the particleboard
folding table to hold the plywood top on. Thus, you
need to chop the 1”x2” into a few pieces
that can be placed on the bottom of your folding table.
Make sure the legs will fold up properly when the pieces
are attached. We used five pieces, each about 16”
long.
Lay the plywood on the ground, top down, and center
the folding table on top of it. Lay in your freshly
chopped 1”x2” pieces and attach them using
one of the #8 wood screws (one inch long). Then, drill
pilot holes for the screws you will use to attach the
top to the folding table. We put two holes in each of
our five 1”x2” pieces, for a total of 10
holes that go through the 1”x2”, through
the folding table, and through the plywood.
Figure 2 is of the bottom of the final product, but
you can clearly see the construction involved in the
underbelly of your hand-carpentered beauty. Note the
placement of the 1”x2” pieces.
Figure 2
Next, flip everything right side up and attach the top
to the folding table with the two-inch long screws.
Make sure you counter sink the screws a bit so the heads
don’t stick up above the table surface.
Upholster the Mother
Sand the edges of the table to round them off slightly.
You may need to sand down the top of the table a bit,
too, particularly where you put screws in.
Spray a two-foot section of the tabletop with the adhesive
spray. Then, unroll a section of the foam padding on
top. Read the directions for your spray adhesive. Ours
recommended that we spray both surfaces and let it sit
a minute or two to get tacky before applying the foam
to the table. We sprayed some of our interns as well,
and then threw sawdust at them. We
don’t recommend you do this, unless you have small
interns.
Apply foam in two-foot sections until you have the
table covered. Trim the foam so that you have only a
few inches peeking over the edges.
You may need to iron your felt/cloth. If so, refer
to any instructions that came with it. Also, do not
let your friends take pictures of you doing this. Even
more importantly, do not let your/wife girlfriend see
the pictures if they do.
Put your felt/casino cloth on the ground, face down,
and flip the table over on top of it. From here, you
simply pull the cloth as taut as possible and start
stapling it to the underneath of the plywood. This is
most certainly a two-person job. It’s important
to get the cloth as tight as possible. We found that
it was easier, at certain points, to flip the table
right side up and staple from below. You may wish to
spray the final product with some Scotchguard.
Attach the rail
The CasinoSupply.com pre-fab rail is pretty simple.
It wraps around the table and your only job is to permanently
attach it. CasinoSupply.com suggests using heavy-duty
3/4” staples for this job, but we didn’t
have a staple gun that could handle staples that big.
So, we decided to use #8 screws, each with a #8 finish
washer and 3/8 flat washer attached, to attach the rail.
We used quite a lot of these. We’re not sure if
this method is better than the staples, but it worked
pretty well.
The trickiest part of the rail is the joint where the
two ends connect. We used rubber-specific cement to
glue them together. There may be a better solution,
but we couldn’t find one.
Courtesy of Jeff Croft at www.jeffcroft.com
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